Purim

OK, what happens if you cross Halloween, Easter, Mardi Gras, and Christmas?

Posters like this were everywhere.
It was the easiest thing to find a party.

Purim in Israel, that’s what!

Purim starts with a daylong fast and, in most of the world (in walled cities it starts the following sundown), is followed directly by 24 hours of costumes, candy, binge drinking, and gift giving all covered in a strangely religious overtone.

Kids were not the only ones
dressing up

Of course, I only saw Jerusalem. I hear that Tel Aviv is much more extreme.

The festivities started a week prior, children in costumes on their way to school, small fire-crackers going off in the evenings, gifts of cakes and candies

Group of High School kids at the train station three days
before Purim.

everywhere, people looking for charity donations. The closer we got to the day the more interesting it got.

But nothing I have ever seen compares to Purim itself. The streets were packed, alcohol was flowing everywhere, and nowhere could anyone have told Haman, the villain of the Purim story, of from Mordechai, the make hero. I had decided that I would try to stay out all night and, hopefully watch the sunrise at the Western Wall.

Costumes continued the next day,
As well as all the other festivities.

I have a video of these two who
were playing amazingly on the bus.

Other than the sunrise bit, I succeeded. I found myself, at 4:00 in the morning, drunk, alone, shivering, and asleep, leaning on the most holy site in the Jewish world. But somehow, it was one of the best nights of my life.

This was the scene at Mahame Yahudah, the shuk in the new
city. Crowd so think no one could get through. Just before I
took this picture, a cab tried to drive down this street. It didn't
work.

My jacket and camera were at a friend’s apartment. My phone was in another friend’s purse, but I had watched the stars reflecting off the Dome of the Rock from the rooftops of the old city. The night air was crisp like only a spring night in the dessert can be, but I was surrounded by a beauty and energy I had yet to see in Israel. Even in the Old City, where it was quiet, there was a buzz of energy as people, mostly in groups but some, like me, alone, traversed the ancient streets. In my quest to explore, I found my way to the rooftops over the shuk. During the day, the shuk is the noisiest part of the Old City, but now, it was quiet other than the occasional group singing and laughing late into the night.

This was today. After the festivities were over.

In all reality, I’m glad I left my things behind. Yes it would have been nice to have my jacket, or even a scarf, but my only regret of the evening is that I should have explored more.

Now I have a desire to return to those roof tops. I think I know the way.

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